“Nikusoba,” eaten around Kahoku Town and Sagae in Yamagata Prefecture, is a little different from the soba most people in Japan know.
In this region, nikusoba is made with cold soba noodles, topped with slices of firm chicken, and served in a sweet-savory, richly seasoned broth. It’s a deeply local style of soba.
The first surprise is that the soba is cold.
Many restaurants serve it cold even in winter. This style is said to have developed as a way to cope with the extremely hot summers in Yamagata’s inland areas.
The noodles have a very strong bite.
They’re what Japanese people might call “washi-washi” — not smooth and slippery, but chewy and satisfying to chew.
Even in cold broth, the noodles don’t go soft, and they hold their own against the rich soup and the firm chicken.
The chicken isn’t tender young chicken, but older, firmer chicken with a strong texture.
Many people find it tough at first, but the more you chew, the more flavor comes out. It goes surprisingly well with the depth of the broth.
The broth is based on chicken stock and soy sauce.
It looks rich, but the taste is actually quite clean.
A little chicken fat floats on the surface, but because the soup is cold, it doesn’t feel heavy. It’s easier to finish than it looks.
In Kahoku Town, especially in the Yachi area, there are several soba shops that specialize in nikusoba.
Here, nikusoba isn’t really tourist food — it’s closer to an everyday comfort dish for local people.
Many shops also offer set meals, so it’s worth trying one when you visit.
