Risshaku-ji (Yamadera), located in Yamagata Prefecture, is not just another temple.
Here, climbing more than 1,000 stone steps becomes part of the pilgrimage itself—a deeply immersive experience where you reflect on nature, silence, and even your own thoughts.
Scattered halls clinging to steep rock cliffs, a forest-covered approach path, and panoramic views of the rural landscape from halfway up the mountain.
This is also the place where Matsuo Basho composed his famous haiku:
“Such stillness—
the cries of the cicadas
sink into the rocks.”
In this article, we’ll introduce not only the history and highlights of Risshaku-ji, but also how to get there, how long it takes, and what the path to the main hall is really like—based on firsthand experience.
Risshaku-ji is an ancient Tendai Buddhist temple in Yamagata Prefecture with a history spanning more than 1,100 years.
It was founded in the year 860, in the early Heian period, by the monk Jikaku Daishi Ennin.
Locals affectionately call it “Yamadera,” meaning “Mountain Temple.”
The reason it is called Yamadera is quite simple.
Instead of being built on flat ground, its halls and structures are scattered across steep mountain slopes and rocky cliffs.
In other words, the mountain itself forms the temple grounds.
In fact, the name “Yamadera” is used more often than its official name, Risshaku-ji.
What draws travelers from around the world is not just its age or architecture.
This is a place where the mountain itself becomes a giant temple, and the act of visiting feels like a spiritual journey.
Along the steep mountain slope, 1,015 stone steps lead all the way toward the summit.
In Japan, there is a long-held belief that with each step you climb, one earthly desire or negative thought is left behind.
As you slowly make your way up the quiet forest path, surrounded by trees and birdsong, you may feel both your body and mind gradually becoming lighter and clearer.
This is also a place closely associated with Matsuo Basho, Japan’s most famous haiku poet.
In 1689, he visited Yamadera during his journey recorded in The Narrow Road to the Deep North.
Moved by the overwhelming stillness of the place, he composed one of the most famous haiku in Japanese literary history:
“Such stillness—
the cries of the cicadas
sink into the rocks.”
The line expresses a silence so profound that even the sound of cicadas seems to seep into the stone itself.
That mysterious, tranquil atmosphere can still be felt here today.
At the end of the climb, the climax of the journey awaits.
From Godaido Hall, a small wooden pavilion built on a rocky outcrop halfway up the mountain, you can enjoy a sweeping panorama of the surrounding countryside.
The dramatic contrast between rugged cliffs and traditional rural scenery creates a view that feels almost like a painting.
Visiting Yamadera is not simply about “seeing a temple.”
It’s about becoming one with nature and reflecting on yourself as you climb.
History, spirituality, and breathtaking scenery—
all of it waits beyond more than 1,000 stone steps.
The nearest station is Yamadera Station.
From Yamagata Station, it takes about 20 minutes on the
JR Senzan Line (no transfers required),
making Yamadera an easy and realistic day trip from Yamagata City.
However, trains on the Senzan Line do not run very frequently.
Depending on the time of day, there may be only one train per hour,
so it’s a good idea to check the timetable in advance.
From Yamadera Station, the temple is easily accessible on foot.
There are two main entrances to Risshaku-ji.
Entrance 1
View on Google Maps
About 5 minutes on foot from Yamadera Station
Entrance 2
View on Google Maps
About 7 minutes on foot from Yamadera Station
No matter which entrance you use, there is no major difference in the pilgrimage route or main sights.
If you’re unsure which way to go, simply follow the flow of people from the station,
and you’ll naturally arrive at one of the entrances.
You will be climbing 1,015 stone steps, so it’s a good idea to allow plenty of time.
It takes about 30–40 minutes one way to reach the top.
If you take your time, stop for photos, and enjoy the scenery along the way,
it’s safest to plan for about 1.5 to 2 hours round trip.
Risshaku-ji is especially beautiful on the way down.Be sure to enjoy the scenery as you descend.
If you haven’t tried them yet, be sure to give them a taste.
Opening Hours
April – September:8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
December – March:8:30 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.
(The gates close at 4:00 p.m.)
Open year-round
Please note:
During the winter season (around December to March),
the closing time may be earlier depending on weather conditions.
Be sure to allow enough time for your visit.
Admission Fees
Adults (junior high school students and older): 500 yen
Children (ages 4 and older): 200 yen
This article is based on information as of November 15, 2025.
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